How dangerous is trad climbing reddit. More than skills, the right group of climbing partners from whom you can learn is most crucial. And yes we are scared of falling. 5 racks looking to make it a true double. I’ve been climbing about 8 years, leading trad consistently for maybe 3. All of that took two years and hundreds of dollars. I also did extensive research on my own about gear placement. alpine climbing is really dangerous. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. To become proficient at climbing trad you first need to be proficient at climbing. 4 cams/ <#5 BD nuts or equivalent for trad climbing? People have told me that it's dangerous due to the drop in kN ratings I’ve been unable to justify putting myself in dangerous positions when I know I could leave my family in a very bad position if I where to perish in the mountains. When you're ready to onsight trad 5. Go to Colorado region forums and ask for a climbing partner. They are really two separate things, the relatively safe sport/movement aspect like bouldering or sport climbing versus climbing where risk is part of it like trad and mountaineering. But at 49 percent of trad incidents, it ranks as the most frequently tagged factor for any style of climbing in the data. If you live near good trad climbing, use a climbing forum like Mountain Project or a social network like Facebook Groups to find local climbers that have experience looking for partners. This [1] says it's 1 in 350,000 climbs, which if true, is worse than driving. What is trad climbing? Is it dangerous? How do I get started? The Protection Cams Nuts, Stoppers, and Chocks Natural Protection Bolts Hexes Tricams Big Bros Ball Nuts Offset Cams Building Your Rack Techniques Face Climbing Crack Climbing Anchors Direction of Pull Cordelette Sliding X Other Options Double Figure Eight Loop aka Bunny Ears Clove You must have been talking to some old dads from Yosemite or the gunks. Plus you can store some snacks, sun screen, sunglasses, or other little stuff in there to quickly access without removing the back. I’m still sport climbing, trad climbing, and plan on skiing low angle backcountry and steep inbounds runs. The local climbing guide books would be my first choice for information on this topic but they are often too vague. Why should climbing mean the same for everyone? If somebody says they like swimming does that imply that swimming the English Channel is something they should want to do? Are people not “real” surfers if they’re scared of big waves or dangerous areas? Climbing very obviously means different things to different people, and just like there is a difference between mountaineering and 1. Recently started climbing some easy trad routes - I’ve noticed that when belaying from the ground, the first piece is liable to getting pulled around a bit and shifting position as the belayer moves around. ). I want to get some different peoples opinions on this one. Is this really worth listening to? Of course climbing technology has evolved. Um yes. See full list on scoutorama. Skip Reddit, go to Mountain Project instead. If you're not climbing close to your technical limit, but instead interested in climbing quickly and efficiently at a "moderate" grade (eg, a 5. Sep 5, 2023 · Climbing since 2015, mostly trad. 47 votes, 41 comments. r/tradclimbing: Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Climbing outside is dangerous. For climbing it's really convenient as I can reach the water bottles hands free. 9 multipitch/alpine route), running it out between good stances is a decision that moves you closer to the free-solo end of the spectrum in terms of trading risk for Ladies; trad shoe recommendations?? Trad (lady) babes; any shoe recs to help my poor tootsies feel less like I’m slicing them off every time I shove em in a crack? <3 please and thank you!! Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. 5 - #5. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great New trad climbers often get in a fairly dogmatic frame of mind about "nuts go in constrictions and cams go in parallel cracks" when in practice, most of my placements are cams in constrictions. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. 5 days there's not much time for other In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. You can be incredibly cautious, or you can walk upon a razor's edge. rocks, animals, walkoffs, weather, any other hazard you can think of can get you while climbing trad. Dave Macleod (one of the strongest scottish climbers these days and also in general 16 votes, 52 comments. you can make it as safe as you want to a point. The best advice I have for you is to boulder a ton so that you start to develop proper technique so that you don't get elvis leg (as much) while placing gear. If you're on your 3rd trad lead ever and you're out of gear, looking at a dangerous fall, and all you have is a horizontal nut placement, you should reassess what you're climbing In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. If you are single pitch climbing, it's probably fine, but multipitch climbing with a full double rack, draws, anchor material, atc/grigri, and water bottle/packable jacket gets really tight without a lot of gear loop space. This is unlike e. Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. Hey everyone! I’ve been trad climbing for 3 years now and I am interested in switching my gear around. I've only started building climbing anchors recently, and although I can confidently build a safe anchor, I don't know enough yet to inspect all the anchors other people set up. 50 votes, 75 comments. The home of Climbing on reddit. Some people are drawn towards the adventure/pushing the limits aspect of climbing which in reality is a much bigger part of its history. 75 for the BD Z4s but don’t have any experience with them. Multi pitch Trad climbing isn't necessarily about how hard you can pull, there's a whole skill set of rope/gear usage and management that plays a big role in your chances of success. When I think of 'classic' British trad, often the fact that it is dangerous, runout, unprotected and with groundfall potential is the point of doing the route, rather than tolerating the risk for a high quality climb. I understand that it's common for guidebooks to warn climbers about sandbagging or climbs that aren't ideal for inexperienced leaders. The old school meaning of trad was to always climb from the ground up. 40 votes, 79 comments. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I have a rack of totems then BD C4 . The skillets aren't exactly the same (trad is more endurance, and sport is more power endurance), but if you get good at one, you get good at the other. 10's (especially face-climbing ones, which are considerably more demanding of protection skills and strategies than pure crack climbs), that is, for most people, the right time to consider falling as part of your climbing strategy. There is a ton of trad climbing at Lumpy Ridge, plus some fun, epic alpine trad in Rocky Mountain National Park. In principle, any E-grade can also be perfectly safe, it just needs to be physically harder than a scary route of the same grade. ;) Most of the crazy trad stuff you see coming out of the UK is mostly Gritstone which you have to be pretty unlucky to actually die on due to lack of The problem with free soloing is that if you do die, best case scenario you're creating a horrific mess somebody else has to clean up; worst case scenario you're damaging the global climbing community with a high-profile accident that will make people think climbing is more dangerous and irresponsible than it is, inspire private landowners to I think trad has ruined sport climbing for me I've been climbing 10 + years, 5 quite seriously, and have clipped bolts all over North America. Thanks in advance!! That's not how UK trad grades work. ) but want to know what skills I should have solid before I dive into the mountains. all can be as tame or as dangerous as you decide to make it. It requires more gear, and thus is more expensive to get into. 22 votes, 17 comments. This was my first route with no bolted anchors and it was too much fun! The route was staircase at eleven mile in Colorado 5. Two years ago, though, I got into trad and haven't looked back. Was mistakenly gifted a set of WC Friends (sizes 1, 2, 3) for Christmas by relatives. The PNW has a strong mixed and trad ethic. 5/EU 46. About 15-30 people die per year in the USA, almost all outdoors. That was painful to watch. Trad climbing Trad is an adventure and not some kind of stepping stone of progression from the gym. I took a lead climbing class at my gym, bought some quickdraws, and started sport climbing inside and outside. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. The best shoe is the one that fits your foot and meets your needs. No hanging on the rope to work out the moves (hang dogging). 5 and they fit like a dream. 7, but it took so long to get here that it feels like I’ll never be a 5. it's dangerous. 5 deaths/year / 37,500 climber-days/year or 1/429! Jun 25, 2023 · Trad climbing can be dangerous if proper precautions are not taken or if the climber is not experienced enough. football or tennis, where there is no such inherent risk, which needs to be prevented. Today I tried to climbing a 5. If you fell you would lower to the ground, pull the rope and start it again. The higher heel helps support your ankle torqued over in cracks and the rigidity of the sole helps with edging. If I can't find anyone, would doing mock trad routes regularly be sufficient? I know how dangerous trad climbing can be if approached carelessly so I don't want to practice incorrectly and become falsely confident. 20 feet isn't that far on easy climbing, but if there's a ledge below you that changes that balance. All of the suggestions I've been given either lead to dead ends or organizations that don't respond to emails. Trad climbing is about a lot more than just how to place a nut. Best option is to hire a professional rock guide and have them teach you, or take a group class, or go to an event/climbing festival. Of course, those numbers are from UK, where all climbing is crazy trad. Learning Trad Climbing near Dallas? Hello, I've recently got interested in learning to trad climb and from my research I've found it very difficult to find a place to learn trad climbing in this very flat state. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Should I be learning self rescue, obscure rappel techniques, or high altitude specific skills? 16 votes, 42 comments. 12 bolted climbs and ski avalanche controlled powder and have a blast instead of skiing on a glacier and climbing a sketchy corniced M5 gully to reach a summit. Rep point and pink point are sport climbing terms that were latter applied in a trad context, somewhat imperfectly what with it being a different buisness. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. trad climbing is dangerous but can be perfectly safe depending on the climb and how well you place gear. Mentors can be useful, but a bad mentor is worse than no mentor, especially in the age of quality free online resources. 5 and we did it in 3 pitches. I already have a double rack so don’t particularly want or need them. Go follow a handful of pitches on gear and try mock trad leading on TR, then have partner check your gear. In practice, in both sport and trad, grades vary from In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. Here's the thing. com I'm not paying to find out that the answer is trad climbing is dangerous lol. Can’t return them for various reasons so need to sell them. For the best that Colorado has to offer (not just trad) check out the area around Estes Park. Feb 14, 2022 · It’s probably no surprise that inadequate protection/protection pulled is the top factor for trad climbing. It's a balance between the likelihood of a fall and the consequences of a fall. Anyone sold new trad gear before? Got a good website I can use to sell them? Alternatively, if anyone is interested they are brand new and still in the packaging. Modern usage of the term trad climbing is where you place your own protection (nuts, cams, etc. There are E9's that are French 7c death routes - Indian Face the obvious example - and there are E9's that Hi, I'm a trad climbing instructor and I enjoy holding courses. You can also do a ton of backpacking in Rocky and its stupidly beautiful. 13 votes, 32 comments. I’ve been climbing hard sport for a long time but just started trad climbing this year and I’m hooked! I’ve been climbing trad way below my limits to be safe. Climbing, skiing, hiking, kayaking. But, If slab’s aren’t your thing and you’re more crack or edging, then I can honestly say the TCs are the best. 26 votes, 114 comments. 173 votes, 88 comments. 10 trad climber. 3K votes, 260 comments. . Start slow, learn from legitimate sources, and other trad climbers. Because there was so much slack in the system (distracted belayer, but no hard feelings) I fell 20+ft! In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. Having some trouble finding shoes that fit the bill with trad in mind - I'm a UK 12/EU 47 street shoe, for reference my current shoe is a Scarpa Instinct VS in UK 11. This past weekend -- for the first time in 2 years -- I went on a short sport climbing trip to a classic area, and was -- frankly -- bored. Climbing is dangerous, if you consider that having no belay while being at top, can very likely result in falling to death. Trad gear (placing, bouncing, falling) absolutely damages sandstone, and other rock to a lesser degree, but it’s only a contention because those cracks are also used for hand/foot placement, whereas in sport climbing the holds aren’t affected by the protection. 7 that is of average length with what I have been told is a standard rack and I got halfway up and realized that I had used all of my large cams and the crack was only getting larger. Also looking for opinions on micro cams. I've also obviously climbed a bunch of choss. I tend to lead everything for my friends so own 1. Trad climbers need to fuck up big time or be quite unlucky with rockfall to die. Next thing you have is a climbing partner and hopefully lifelong friend. People aren't going around a retrobolting everything in my neck of the woods. What are your thoughts on using pro <. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great Yes, I am talking about the Solution Guide. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. It is physically demanding in a totally different way, and not the way that climbers who really want to push the physicality of climbing tend to get stoked about. Very overwhelmed on where to start. How can people be in a competition to become a pro climber without being a well rounded climber? They made trad climbing seem so rare and wild and dangerous 🙄 Reply reply edmunek • Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. 10 on gear, which is good for Hi all, been climbing for 7 months, trad for 2. 11 votes, 15 comments. Not sure why anyone would think otherwise. Any grade can be so bold you're practically soloing, the climbing just needs to be really physically easy for the grade. Ive only been leading trad about a year, but Im confident in my ability to assess a piece of gear. Specifically, I feel like it could be dangerous on easier trad climbs that inexperienced leaders are encouraged to try because of the listed grade. In 2. Im going to get rid of the . Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. A climbing mentor of mine was recently injured when multiple pieces popped and he took a big fall, and he is definitely much better at climbing and gear placement. I’ve been climbing for 2 years and have just started to get into trad climbing and multi pitch. Taking these statistics as a crude mortality model for trad climbing (6), chances of dying when climbing actively every third weekend for two days for a year are: 35 days/year x 2. Now I’m comfy to around 5. 10b sport outside when I started getting into trad, then kinda had to start over when learning on gear. Traditional Climbing Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. 5 & . 8 in red rock, normally comfortable leading at the grade but this was my first proper crack climb (RR tends to be face climb-ey with cracks for pro) and I whipped on a green totem at knee level. Trad (short for “traditional”) climbing involves placing removable gear, such as nuts and cams, into cracks and other features of the rock to protect the climber in the event of a fall. Went out today on a 5. In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. There are a ton of variables and systems you have to learn and get familiar with, and doing so safely without being an "apprentice" can be really hard There are probably good writeups about this on the UKC forums. 30 years ago no one took walkie talkies on multi pitches either, but the arguement against doing so in the name of self reliance gets sillier and sillier every year. g. You should try on shoes that are intended for multipitch trad climbing. 51 votes, 73 comments. it's very dangerous even if you're completely careful. 1. This course includes basically 1 set of methods; and we stick to that (e. I want to do alpine climbing (e. 146 votes, 56 comments. Issues with the "standard rack" I am a newbie trad climber who can still count the amount trad routes I have done on my fingers. The gear loops are tiny compared to my dead bird harness. grand Teton, high sierras, etc. It's perceived as more dangerous (and certainly is riskier in many regards). In theory, a trad route of a given grade should be similar in physical difficulty to a sport route of the same grade, but will feel harder because of carrying a cumbersome rack, the knowledge and skill needed place gear effectively - and/or the mental control required when opportunities to place gear aren't as frequent as you might like. From the abstract, emphasis added: Overall, climbing sports had a lower injury incidence and severity score than many popular sports, including basketball, sailing or soccer; indoor climbing ranked the lowest in terms of injuries of all sports assessed. If you can consistently boulder v3/v4 outdoors you should be more than strong enough to navigate any crux climbing on 5. Any suggestions good folk of Reddit? Reddit's rock climbing training community. we build anchors this way and ignore the rest). The anchors I'm sharing below are for toproping, and not trad, but I think this subreddit is a good place to get opinions from other experienced climbers on anchor safety. Take your time and be safe. A fair chunk of trad climbing in the UK is face climbing. Commiting to a crux 5m above poor wires with solid groundfall potential if they rip feels very different to a crux above some 12mm In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. I was leading up to about 5. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Don't get hung up on it. I have friends who say that they have been climbing for a decade but refuse to learn new things and change their systems. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Nevertheless, a fatality risk remains, especially in alpine and ice climbing. On the other hand, 20 feet on harder vertical climbing might seem daunting but when you look at the fall there's little consequence. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. You can climb thick WI4 and 5. Trad climbing standards and practices change over time. After that I took a trad anchors class through rei and started leading trad routes. After witnessing a fatal 800 foot fall, losing friends and acquaintances over the years, and seeing so many capable climbers succumb to the mountains, I actually have begun to question if any of it is actually worth it. Learn how gear works and why you use it in some situations and not others. Learn how to French free, do some basic aid climbing, how to build anchors, gear anchors and be efficient and safe at a belay. The courses I generally hold are along the lines of "Teach people to lead while placing natural protection". This being said, it depends whats holding you back. 11 sport climber doing a long 5. 152 votes, 249 comments. After climbing in a pair of mythos for years, I like how well they smear and climb on slabs. qhty mys znfd comsoy utt rraf meugte kmlmeqk ojrjz sgri