How to rappel with atc and prusik. Get some DMM rigging gear: http://bit.

How to rappel with atc and prusik. RAPPELLING DOWN Rappelling, or abseiling, is an essential skill for rock climbers to descend from a climb safely and efficiently. rappelling with a guide atc and vt prusik backup. Rappelling backups are an ongoing topic. One piece of added gear needed here and for many rappels is a personal anchor system (PAS), attached to your harness by a girth hitch tied through both harness tie-in points. There are two potential downsides to a third-hand belay Jul 12, 2025 · A prusik is used with an ATC to provide a level of redundancy. Confirm that this last one is girth hitched through your harness’ hard points. More accidents happen on rappel than any other part of climbing, so always take your time, make sure your systems are redundant and practice the steps before you head to the cliff. Jun 2, 2024 · An extended rappel works great with an autoblock “third hand” rappel backup. The Munter Hitch, which requires only a carabiner is a great hitch to know and is a good solid rappel method. Using a munter hitch, using only one locking carabiner and the climbing rope. ly/2LjasRB Sometimes you need to know how to get out of a tight spot, with the gear you have on you. I still use a Prusik backup with it out of habit and use the reverse smooth rappel mode mostly (non-locking). In this guide, we explore the Prusik knot’s role in rope Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Oct 3, 2021 · How to clean (bolted) anchors and rappel on an extended ATC with a third-hand backup attached to the belay loop. Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. This article explains how to attach yourself to the anchor, and abseil with an ATC. However, I have heard different advice on where to put it, both for w. - Your prusik will be centred, making it easier to use than if you attach it to a leg loop. It functions as a secondary safety measure and rappelling back up. Dec 3, 2024 · Prusik Knots in Rope Systems The Prusik knot is a cornerstone of technical rope systems, widely regarded for its versatility and reliability. While I don’t believe in setting hard and fast rules such as you must always rappel with a Prusik, I do think giving yourself the option is an excellent idea. I have an ATC belay device on my bridge, rope threaded on that. Jan 16, 2025 · I often don't bother with a quad and use instead either a single locking biner on the chains or if there are no chains a locker quickdraw to connect both bolts (assuming bolted anchors; gear anchors a whole other issue). What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for help:) Feb 10, 2020 · THE BACK-UP One great way to back up your rappel is with the use of a prusik knot. While I too would like to get rappelling as quickly as possible, there are some fast rigging setups that add huge value to your system and to your skill set as a technician in the vertical environment. Sep 12, 2023 · When it comes to adding friction on skinny ropes while rappelling, it requires some practice, personal testing, and expertise. Jun 3, 2019 · For example, pre-set and lock off the ATC to a comfortable distance below the foot-anchors, then put the end of The Rope through the higher anchor/strong point/bolt carabiner to make a doubled rope, and rappel down over the edge and onto your locked-off ATC using a munter on the doubled end. Avoiding grabby rappel backups like the prusik hitch allows you to rappel much more smoothly with less effort. What are some of the issues, pros, and cons of the different methods of locking a figure 8 or ATC while on a free hanging rappel? I know the most common way to lock an 8 is to simply cross the brake line over in a half lock. Wrap the prusik near the two strings and attach it to the leg loop on the same side as your brake hand. This can be remedied by adding more ‘wraps’ of the autoblock around your rappel ropes and by checking your autoblock’s ability to ‘grab’ the rope before you start your rappel. WARNING: Getting off the couch is inherently dangerous! You must assume all t May 18, 2020 · 6 Usually I rappel using a tubular belay device such as an ATC and tie a stopper knot at the end of each strand of the rope such as a fisherman’s knot. Dec 9, 2020 · If your belay device failed you would have to rig another friction hitch in order to work your way down the rope or add a different rappel setup. Rappelling with a Mega or Giga Jul - your thoughts? The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). This article explains how to ascend a rope using prusiks, assuming that you already know how to tie one. Some people prefer to have the prusik on their leg loop, others use the belay loop. Reply reply More repliesMore replies Nov 3, 2024 · The Modified Autoblock is what I generally use as a rappel backup. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. A final option to belay a rappeller is a "third hand" which incorporates a friction hitch (e. I can slow the descent by squeezing the body of the prusik with my hand or speed the descent by gently pressing on the top of the prusik. Down prusik to them, render first aid if possible, go in direct to their descender, remove your prusiks, and take over the rappel to get you to a safe ledge or the ground and call for help. Presenter - Darrell WestonVideographer - Matt Blecharz I was practicing the auto-block abseiling setup with prusik knot and ATC / eight. Dec 10, 2013 · Tying a third hand (which usually involves an autobloc hitch or a prussik hitch) enables you to easily back-up your rappel so you can release your brake hand whilst rappelling without losing control and/or suffering potentially dire consequences. Should I backup my rappel - Comments from climbers reproduced in Dawn's FAQ regarding backing up an abseil with a prusik (or similar) knot, above or below the belay device. placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way. What I found to be the most difficult when I first started was actually learning to trust the rope to hold me. While being lowered by a belayer is generally the most ideal way The prusik isn’t meant to take the weight of the climber, just enough to break the rappel while still relying on the rappel device, carabiner, belay loop to bear the weight. g. I was curious if there was a "perfect" way to do it or if it was to the climber Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. To make the auto block, use a webbing loop designed for this such the Sterling Hollow Block, or second choice, a short prusik loop (start with 1. Advantages - You can use a prusik with less chance of it getting sucked into your belay device. It should fit snug without being tight, and sit above your hip bones. Rappelling is a great option when the anchor system shows signs of wear, Jul 11, 2025 · A prusik in rappelling is a motion-resistant knot designed to tighten up when weighted. Learn how to create an extended rappel using a 120cm sling. Use up most of the cord during your wraps to create friction. For tether I just use a purcell prusik As a precaution, place a backup prusik on the rope under your rappel electronics. com Jul 18, 2023 · In this 4-minute read, I’ll walk you through the essential steps to rappel off the top of any single-pitch sport route. I was pretty confident with how it works, until I realized that I was testing single rope setup. Is there a safety knot which you can tie before rappelling using the Munter hitch (instead of an ATC) on a double-stranded rope which does not pass through your carabiner? In this one we look not only at prusiking up a rope, but also using a guide plate in place of a prusik / klemheist too, to be a little more efficient. Other hitches like a Klemheist work and release much better for rappels. This video was made with a saddle hunter in mind and shows how to safely transition from a tree tether, tied off with a prusik cord, to a figure 8 or other device for a rappel down the tree once The basic rappelling equipment consists of ropes, anchors, rappel devices, a locking carabiner, and a harness. How can I lower my ATC? 1 – Tie a quick overhand or figure 8 on Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. But I usually rappel on 11 mm BlueWater II static rope, and such a large tough rope can jamb if this lock method is used while the device is weighted. Friction (Belay/Rappel) Device There are a lot of different styles of devices to connect your harness to the rope, but the most common is a tube-style belay device like an ATC, which can double as a rappelling device and allow you to pass both strands of the rope through it. Jun 6, 2017 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. In Apr 4, 2008 · Here's a climber about to rappel out of a tree on a doubled rope using a tethered ATC with prusik back-up. 7K subscribers Subscribed Mar 9, 2021 · Home - Climb - Abseiling Safely: The Complete Guide on How to Rappel Proper abseiling technique is a valuable skill for every rock climber and mountaineer to have in their pocket. i use french prusik and trust it with my life. - You can transition from abseiling to ascending easily – useful if you abseil too far on a multi-pitch descent Rappelling is another essential skill when you're out in the wilderness and a fantastic gateway to moving on steep terrain. Learn how here. Is there a correct placement May 2, 2025 · Climbing is inherently risky. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant and makes our team happy and confident. e. Whether used in high-angle rescue, climbing, or rigging operations, the Prusik knot provides a lightweight, adaptable solution for progress capture, backup belay, and other critical applications. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Hey! Glad to see someone else using a Purcell. I demonstrate how to use an ATC, a figure 8 and the Ma Jun 3, 2019 · 1. On marginal anchors, smooth rappelling is essential. Really smooth rappel this way. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. To tie a prusik, you will need a length of 6mm cordelette (also known as an accessory cord). With the other hand, I push the top of the prusik down which releases pressure on the ATC rappel device and allows me to go down. go more rounds, or try a different different prusik diameter? the prusik is to hold the rope downwards, as if your hand is pulling the rope down when braking on the atc. Connect yourself to the anchor using your personal safety. In addition, via friction hitches, friction allows you to grip the climbing rope, which is super useful in various contexts like hauling and ascending. Rap Backup - From Karl Lews web site. Extending your belay device before abseiling can be useful in certain situations. Then, use a locking carabiner from your harness leg loop, clip both ends, and lock the carabiner. I created the following guide to teach… Jul 12, 2025 · How to Stay Safe When Rappelling Knowing how to use the ATC to rappel is just the beginning. If you Seneca Rocks Climbing School guide Adam Happensack demonstrates how to properly load an ATC for rappel to reduce the odds of dropping the device. I use 40 ft of 9mm HTP, a Black Diamond ATC and a 35cm Beal Jammy prusik for an autoblock, a simple and relatively inexpensive set up. more May 15, 2025 · The Autoblock knot, also called French Prusik knot, is a friction hitch used as a backup when rappelling. The extension is for ease of rappel. This is a safer way to utilize an ATC in tree climbing, as mentioned earlier I'm uncomfortable with the idea of descending out of a tree on a system that doesn't have hands off stop. Checking Rappel Gear Your essential climbing gear is also your rappel gear, with a few additions. This would entail connecting a dynamic system and the static rope to a single biner, which is probably not a good idea. Now let’s get into the guts of how to stay safe up high while rappelling! Use a Prusik A prusik is a length of accessory cord with both ends tied together using a fisherman’s knot to form a loop. (At least in my Abseiling (or rappelling) is a technique used to descend climbing ropes. Using oplux 8mm, Sterling Hollow Block autoblock (French prusik) below the ATC and every combination of seven different tube style belay/rappel devices and six different carabiners. Dec 21, 2018 · An ATC with a safety is s better option in my opinion and while a prusik or similar tension hitch below the ATC works, I’m really liking a VT Prusik above the ATC. Ensure you always have one hand on the prusik and one hand on the rope. Most climbers now rappel with an autoblock hitch below the device, clipped to a leg loop with a locking carabiner. , a Autoblock, Klemheist, Prusik, etc) on the rope strand of rope that exits the brake-side of the DCD. This is a key skill in multipitch and single pitch scenarios where someone needs to go up and down a ro Dec 5, 2024 · Lowering and Rappelling The performance of the Giga Jul for lowering and rappelling is once again dependent on which mode you are using. Using a double carabiner brake rappel with four carabiners. A correctly tied prusik knot will slide down the ropes in hand but will auto-block if you let go of the brake hand for any reason. Let us Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Finally, straighten out all the wraps so they’re not crossed. A prussik knot is one of the easiest and most important knots that you can tie while rappelling. It also allows for redundancy when clipping in and out of the anchors on each rappel. Apr 17, 2017 · 9) Attach prusik on load strand to your belay loop with locker within arms reach 10) Undo personal clove to anchor, rappel down tending your rappel prusik and climber-side prusik at the same time 11) When arriving at climber, let climber-side prusik go taught and rappel like normal, lowering both guide and climber How to clean (bolted) anchors and rappel on an ATC with a third-hand backup attached to the leg loop. 3. In this article, I Jun 22, 2019 · Now assume the ascent has ended mid-rope (i. Without tying that extra dangle, just clip your belay device into the loop that goes around your hard points. If you don’t know how to tie a prusik knot, you can learn here. Piece of shock cord and some tape is required to silence the ATC. It grips under load and releases even when loaded. Most people are so concerned about going up the wall that they fail to prepare for the (arguably more important) counterpart: safely coming back down. Backing up the belay device As well as putting the load on the proper device (atc) not the friction hitch. With my Mantis I’ve been using a short bridge of some sort (sling currently) and running my VT Prusik safety to the Amsteel bridge. I make mine large enough to prusik onto the rope. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. Jun 3, 2022 · Learn this reliable system, which includes a backup and basic rope-ascent skills, to make your rappelling safer. Lastly, three wraps on a prusik (aka the “improved prusik”) is best practice on thinner ropes, or if you’re traversing an area on a single strand fixed line. Knowing how to prusik up a rope transforms a potential epic into a mere inconvenience. This guide will outline the gear needed, how to set up a personal anchor system, using an ATC (air traffic controller), and adding a third hand for extra security. In this video I highlight alternatives to the Madrock Safeguard for one stick climbing and rappelling. If the rescuer becomes incapacitated due to rock fall or other circumstances, the friction hitch will grab the rope and stop his descent. One friction hitch above it and a distel hitch on the brake strand tied to my linemans loop. Jul 12, 2025 · How to Rappel with a Figure 8 1. For rappelling, we preferred using manual mode with a prusik backup, as this is far and away the smoothest way to rappel, and feels just like any other tube-style device. A climbing helmet, hiking shoes, gloves, and of course, comfortable clothes are a must if you are going rappelling. Is there a perfect way to backup your rappelling system? Aug 22, 2021 · Can you rappel with a Prusik? The prusik is already attached to the climber’s belay loop, so all she has to do is add a second friction hitch for her feet below the first friction hitch. Aug 26, 2022 · In Part 5 of this series, Alice shows Clare how to abseil/rappel from the top of a crag. Sep 17, 2018 · I have been playing around with the one stick method and realize that it would be much faster to get down the tree by rappelling. How to use an Auto-Block to backup your rappel. Dec 11, 2014 · This information and the order in which it is presented is intended to provide an overall understanding of these techniques; they are not intended to serve as a tutorial on how to rappel or engage in any other climbing activity outside of the context of a complete climbing course. The autoblock functions as your “third hand” rappel backup, and let you go hands-free on the rappel at any time. Get some DMM rigging gear: http://bit. Nov 12, 2018 · Using a dedicated extension when rappelling in an alpine setting provides maximum flexibility and efficiency, allows you to move freely near the anchor while being clipped in, and maintains the extension within arms. An autoblock is an optional but often used addition. With the pre-rigged rappel, we can increase the security of our team while also making the descent more efficient. I use the sterling hollow block, but also use accessory cord at times i dont have it. See full list on outdoortroop. And I plan to be able to clear routes from the anchor by double rope descending (twin rope? half rope? whatever). so it doesnt hold a lot of load. It is certainly a necessary part of rappelling, but most people I know rig quickly and almost thoughtlessly so they can get to the fun stuff. Prusiking is most commonly needed when: - You abseiled too far - You abseiled the wrong way - Your ropes get stuck after abseiling - If My questions are Is it a reasonable fear that my prusik knot could break in the event of a fall while rappelling? Can I just attach my prusik to my leg loop and tie my prusik below my ATC, or does this run the risk of the ATC pushing the prusik knot down and it not braking in the event of a fall while rappelling? Feb 22, 2020 · I’ve done several hundred rappel tests over the past two months and wanted to share my findings. Testing without Aug 17, 2024 · Test if it works; if so, add a prusik, remove yourself from the anchor, and start to rappel slowly, as you would with an ATC. Rappelling requires the ability to make decisions on a situational basis, and the extended rappel might not always When rappelling and using an autoblock consisting of a french prusik knot it seems there may be some options on how and where to attach the autoblock to my harness. Check that your rappel rope is connected to the anchor The extended rappel, explained — Alpinesavvy Rappel Backup Prusik By using a backup, you effectively create a ‘third hand’ on the rope using a sling in the form of a friction hitch, which can act as an extra measure of security should you. Aug 30, 2021 · Can you rappel with a Prusik? As a backup for rappelling Perhaps the most obvious reason to carry a Prusik is to use it as a “third hand” or backup while rappelling. While climbing hand hanging, the atc merely works as tender for the prusik, I keep Jan 27, 2012 · When abseiling from an anchor during rock climbing, I like to use a backup prusik as a potential lifesaver in case I screw up. Ensure all personal safety equipment is on and fitted correctly. (If you use an alternative type of anchor tether to a PAS, some steps here will change slightly. Couple questions from what I’ve found Check out a useful skill to switch for rappel to ascend with the Black Diamond Guide ATC. The Pros and Cons of an Autoblock Knot The biggest advantage of using an autoblock Feb 1, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Set up a static rope off one of the bolts (using one of the locking biners already in use for the main anchor), and use a grigri to lower yourself until the Prusik engages the ATC and makes the rappel device taut. The two most popular friction hitches in climbing are the autoblock and the prusik. It puts the belay device about 8 or so inches away from the harness and there is about 3-4 inches between that and my backup clipped into my belay loop. Jun 23, 2023 · Climbing and rappelling go hand in hand. Sep 14, 2021 · How do you rappel if you drop your ATC? There are three primary methods for rappelling without a traditional belay device: Pursuing a single rope rappel with your partner, using only one belay device. Apr 6, 2021 · Is anyone using a basic figure 8 device to rapel? With a prusik already on the tether to be used as backup seems like the simplest and cheapest option to rapel after one sticking. Rappelling is quite safe, but only if performed correctly. Jun 8, 2016 · The prusik is already attached to the climber’s belay loop, so all she has to do is add a second friction hitch for her feet below the first friction hitch. I’m doing this on a budget for now, to see if I’ll like 1 sticking. What is the safest and most simple method of flipping the ATC guide and the entire system out of auto-locking mode and back into a typical rappel mode? Now bearing in mind I have rappel rope as tether so I can get safely down in the dark. My planned setup is 40’ of sterling htp 9mm and either a figure 8 or an atc device. Love the Megajul — one or two ropes in belay assist, guide mode, two rappel modes cheap, simple, robust and light. This rappelling tutorial will show how to set up a rappel and build an Feb 22, 2020 · The main downside to the autoblock is that it creates less friction than either the prusik or the kleimheist. Then the locker quickdraw can be used as the rappel extension on the way down, and one of its locking biners goes directly on the ATC. 2. ) You also need a 24- to 36 May 29, 2018 · Advanced Rappel Techniques SIET, School for International Expedition Training 30. This is a continuation of teaching the series of knots and skills needed to do a simple rappel with simple gear. I teach how to tie, check, and use a Prusik hitch as a safety belay backup. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. This includes harness, helmet and personal safety system (this is the personal safety I use). Dec 28, 2010 · I use 4' nylon sling with a overhand knot in the middle to extend the rappel, then attach prussik/autoblock to leg loop with a locker. Prusik Rappel Safety - A discussion paper on using a prusik knot to backup an abseil from the rock climbing archive site. Apr 29, 2023 · In rock climbing, friction is your friend. Anyone else out there rappelling down after the hunt? If so, what knot/ equipment are Jun 17, 2013 · Rigging to rappel is an often undervalued skill. Mar 14, 2023 · A prusik bites very hard and doesn’t release easily under load, which is needed when on rappel. Rappel Backup Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through ways to rappel with a personal backup. The GriGri, however, already has redundancy— it has the assisted braking cam and the curves in the rope like the ATC. Back-up systems include extra rope to use as safety back-up known as prusik and personal anchor tether (also known as personal anchor system). Equipment Used: Petzl Reverso* (Similar to an ATC) + Bl Say the first down on rappel got hit by rock fall and was unresponsive while held in place by their third hand. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. Tying them to your rope and attaching them to your harness will catch you in the event that you fall while rappelling. Equipment Used: Petzl Reverso* (Similar to an ATC) + Black Diamond Autolocking Jun 21, 2024 · To tie an autoblock knot, wrap the hitch cord around the rappel ropes four to five times. How it is advisable to rappel in this configuration? Friction hitch with two ropes? A friction hitch Jan 27, 2021 · I set my rappel back up (guide ATC on a chain reactor, maybe 1 or 2 loops away from my harness), tied my prusik (below the ATC), and tested that the prusik would hold. This skill can be done with other devices and MUST be practices to Sep 15, 2022 · This video shows how to ascend a rope from a rappel. This ‘preflight check’ is something that should be done with any backup and should be a part of Subscribe to our channel for the latest updates and more! In this video we review two ways to back up a belay device for a rappel. I have tried using a munter hitch backed by a prussik with pretty good success. Learn how to rappel right! Dec 12, 2022 · Pass the knot by removing your rappel device from above the knot and reinstalling it below the knot, with a third-hand backup prusik in place below your ATC (clipping the prusik to your leg loop is common when not using a rappel extension). Dec 10, 2020 · I’m looking To get a rappel setup together to practice with before next season, and have a few questions. For example, friction helps you belay your partner and descend via rappelling with more control. no stable anchor to hook in to) and the climber wants to transition to a rappel. It does not grab particularly well, but it provides enough friction for use below an ATC while rappelling. This loop of cord is then wrapped around the rope as a prusik hitch, which is then clipped to the leg About prusik/autoblock : below ATC, above ATC, ATC attached to a sling to your belaying loop Hi! I was curious to know how redditor are doing your rappel : I've learned to have a prusik knot above my ATC as this image but I've seen others technique to do it. wfnzut pmvhrj srjtbj ktllja spnifqs ywg zndai jccyt eltes mdkvy